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No. aem osaf Patented Mar. 2. 1886.

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ATTORNEYS.

. BMBROIDERING MAGHINE.

m ssz'osa; Patexitgd Mar. 2, 1886.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HENRY E. SGHMITZ AND EDWARD ALDOM, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

EMBROlDERlNG-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 337,088, dated March 2,1886. Application filed October 30, 1885. Serial No. 181,412. (Nomodel.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, HENRY E. SoHMr'rz and EDWARD ALDOM, bothofBrooklyn, in the .county of Kings and State of New York, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Embroidering- Machines, of whichthe following is a full, clear, and exact description.

This invention consists in a novel attachment to sewing-machines forembroidering, substantially as hereinafter described, and

pointed out in the claims, and in which, for' example, a single-threadchain-stitch is used to secure on the surface of the cloth or othermaterial to be embroidered a strip or length of cord, braid, chenille,beading, or other embroidering-strip of any suitable color or colors.

The particular class of, sewing or embroidering machines to which theinvention-is designed to be applied is that in which a universalfeed-motion is used-as, for instance, the Bonnaz machine, patentedNovember 10, 1868, No. 83,909. The leading feature of said Bonnazmachine, and which is the only one that has any bearing upon ourinvention, consists, as recited in said Letters Patent No. 83,909, incombining the several working parts of an embroidering-machine in such amanner that a universal feed-motion caused the cloth to move in anydirection desired, and the hooks or needles which made the stitch moved,in combination with said feed-motion, so as not to change their relativepositions to each other, whereby embroidery-work of any curved orintricate design could be made at any desired speed and without turningthe cloth. \Ve use substantially the same mechanism for this purpose aswas used in said universal feed-motion machine, and therefore shall hereonly briefly describe or refer to such mechanism, and show in thedrawings such leading parts thereof as are or may be necessary toelucidate our attachment, the action and object of which is that, whilethe machine makes an ordinary single thread or any suitable stitch,either in a straight or curved direction, the stitches present a zigzagappearance across the embroidering cord, chenille, 8m, laid on thesurface of the cloth by said cord, chenille, &c., being thrownalternately each succeeding stitch to opposite sides of the line ofstitch; and the invention consists in novel means for said purpose,substantially as hereinafter described, the same including a rockingpivoted arm or vibrating lever for carrying and laying the cord,chenille, 8m, and made capable of rotation in common with the needle, soas to follow the needle when shifting the line or course of feed, andso-that it will always be brought or occupy a position in front of thehook or eye of the needle.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming part ofthis specification, in which similar letters of reference indicatecorresponding parts in all the figures.

- Figure 1 represents a partly-sectional side elevation of a Bonnazembroideringmachine in part, with our invention applied; but theinvention is equally applicable to other universal feed-motion machines.Fig. 2 is a transverse section in part upon the line 00 a: in Fig. 1.Fig. 3 is a horizontal section, on a larger scale, upon the line 3 y inFig. 1, of certain mechanism for operating the arm or lever which laysthe chenille, &c., on the cloth. Fig. 4 is a transverse section upon theline .2 z in Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a front view in part with the ring of thefeeder in section, mainly in illustration of the lever and its mechanismwhich lays the chenille; Fig. 6, a similar viewto Fig. 5, but showingthe lever after it has been vibrated to the opposite side of the line ofstitch. Fig. 7 is a side view of parts shown in Figs. 5 and 6, and Fig.8 a vertical sectional view of the same. Figs. 9, 10, 11, and 12 areviews of certain details detached; and Fig.13, a face view of a piece ofcloth embroidered in accordance with our invention.

A is the needle-bar of a Bonnaz or universal feed-motion machine,carrying a hooked needle, I), and having a vertical reciprocating motionimparted to it in piercing the cloth 0, which is supported by the.cloth-plate d, the needle-hook taking the thread 6 beneath thecloth-plate and drawing it up through the cloth, then holding the threadwhile the feed motion takes place, and afterward returning downward tomake the succeeding stitch.

B is the oscillating looper, (seen only in part,) which presents thethread to the hook of the needle each descent of the needle-hook, saidlooper taking hold of the thread, and when the needle has arrived at itslowest position making a turn for the greater portion of a circle andlaying the thread around the needle that on rising takes hold of thethread.

0 is the cloth-t'eeder, of ring shape, sur rounding the needle, andhaving, as in ordinary sewing-machines, a vibratory horizontal as wellas a vertical motion, besides universal feed motion.

D is the driving-wheel of the machine, and E is the main shaft,connected at its forward end by an eccentric pin, 8, with the needle-bardriver F, which. holding the needle-bar carrier G by suitable collars,imparts to said car rier and to the needlebar A, secured thereto by apressure-screw, the necessary vertical reciprocating motion.

H is the nipple surrounding the needle, and which is stationary andholds down on the cloth until the needle has cleared the cloth, toprevent the hook of the needle from pulling the cloth upward, but whichafterward rises to permit of the feed of the cloth. The mechanism forthus operating the nipple may be the same as that used in the Bonnazmachine. The looper is turned the amount nec essary to throw the threadinto the path of the rising needle-hook by a hell-crank, f, deriving itsmotion by an eccentric from the main shaft E, and operating a slidingshaft, 9, having on its forward end a screw, h, which engages with thelooper, to operate it as required.

The vertical and horizontal motions of the feeder O are or may heeffected by means substantially similar to those used in the Bonnazmachine referred to, and the mechanism which gives to the machine itsuniversal feed motion does not essentially differ from that previouslyused. Thus I is the crank or handle beneath the platform of the machine,and secured on a vertical shaft, by which the feed may be directed byhand as required on turning the handle I. Upon this vertical shaft is abevelgear, i, which engages with a gear, 7:, on a tubular shaft, I,through which the shalt g is free to independently slide, as well as torotate with.

Motion is transmitted from the tubular shaft 1, when rotated, by gearsin n op, upright and horizontal shafts 1' t, and gears a c, to theneedlebar carrier G, so that by turning the crank I a combined turningmovement is gii'en to the looper, to the needlebar carrier, and to themeans connected with said carrier which controls the direction of thefeeder, in order that any design, no matter how complicated, may beproduced without turning the cloth, but by simply directing its motionby turning the crank, all as in the Bonnaz machine hereinbefore referredto, and other like machines.

Our attachment to such universal-teed embroidery-machine issubstantially as follows: The chenille or other embroidering material ais supplied from a reel, A, mounted on the needle bar carrier G, and ispassed down through said carrier, or rather through a tube, 1), fittedtherein, to and through an eye, a, in the lower end of an arm or lever,B, near the surface of the cloth, and within the hearing or ring portionof the feeder C. This lever is pivoted at d to a ring, 6, arrangedaround a tubular stud, f, on the under side of the frame of the machine,and through which the needlebar carrier G works. Said lever might be allin one piece; but it is preferred to make it of two independent sectionsor lengths, b b", adjustable one over or along the other, and united toeach other, as by a screw, 9, passing through a slot, h, in one of thesections, or by any other suitable fastening, to provide for lengtheningor shortening the lever, as re quired. The lever B has a vibratingmotion from its pivot d, as a center, (In ring the laying ofthe chenilleor its suhstituteaon the cloth to be embroidered, for the purpose ofthrowing the chenille, 810., each succeeding stitch alternately toopposite sides of the line of stitch, which will cause thestitching-thread e, although straight on the under side of the cloth, topresent a zigzag appearance across the chenille, 820., a, on the uppersurface of the clot-h, as seen in Fig. 13. The means shown for thusvibrating the lever B, which vibration takes place in all directions ofthe feed, are as follows: Arranged around the tubular stud f is aworm-wheel, 0, from which a lower crooked arm, 13', projects, thatengages with a slot, k, in the lever B. Gearing with this wheel 0 isascrew or combined screw and rack, D. that is made capable of havingboth a longitudinal sliding and a rotary mot-ion, but which has only alongitudinal forward and backward sliding motion when operating thewheel 0, to throw the chenille by the lever B to opposite sides of theline of stitch alternately, as described. Thus the shaft or shank Z ofthis screw is litted to slide through a slotted guitlingtube, E,supported in hearings in a bracket, F, and serving by a projection, in,on said shank, fitting the slot in the tube, to confine the screw D to alongitudinal or rcci 'lrocating sliding movement, excepting when thetube E is turned, when thescrew D will be turned with it. The screw D islongitudinally reciprocated to throw the lever B to opposite sides,alternately, of the line of stitch by means of cranks orarms a 0',pivoted at p and vibrated by a rod, g, adjustably connected with acrank, r, on a revolving shaft, G, driven by gears s i from the mainshaft E. This gives the necessary oscillating motion to the wheel 0 tovibrate the lever B, as described, the screw D then simply operating asa rack. When the hand, however, is applied to the crank or handle I, tochange the direction of the feed of the machine, or, in other words, togive to it its universal feed, then the screw D is not onlylongitudinally reciprocated to vibrate the lever B, but is also rotatedor turned about its axis in the same direction as the needle-bar carrieris turned, so as always to keep the lever B or its eye 0 in front of thehook of the needle I), which position is necessary to securethe properlaying of the stitch across or about the chenille, &c., as the latter isvibrated to opposite sides of the line of stitch. The means shown forthus rotating the lever B to follow the hook of the needle as it isrotated or turned, and which is done by turning or rotating the screw D,are as follows: I

Upon the shaft of the mechanism, which is used to change the directionof the feed, is a pulley, u, that, by means of an endless chain, 1;,serves to rotate a pulley, w, fast on the shalt Z of the screw B; or anyother suitable devices connected with the shifting mechanism of the feedmay be used to rotate the lever B in common with the hooked needle.

\Vhen the feed is in a straight line or course, and no motion is givento the handle I, then the needle-bar and its carrier G do not turn, buthave simply a straight up-and-down motion. The vibrating lever B is thenhel d from turning, so as to keep it opposite the hook of the needle, bya slotted arm, 0", fast on the needle-bar carrier, and receiving throughit an arm, at", fast on the ring 6', which carries the lever B; but asthe ring or lever carrier 0' is free to turn about the tubular stud f,then, when the needle-bar carrier is turned, as in changing the courseof the feed, by the working of the handle I, the slotted arm a", turningwith the needle-bar carrier, operates as a driver instead of a guide onthe arm d,

to rotate the ring 6, and the lever B, in com-' men with the needle-barcarrier. Thus in all manipulations of the feed the lever B will be keptin front of the hook of the needle.

The invention may also be applied to double or lock thread stitchmachines using a universal feed, the lever B being operated, asdescribed, to always face the eye of the needle in all changes of thefeed.

Having thus described ourinvention, what we claim as new, and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In universal feed-motion embroideringmachines in which theembroideriug cord or material is alternately laid upon opposite sides ofthe line of stitch, the combination, with the rotatable needle-barcarrier and universal feed-motion devices, operating substantially asdescribed, of the arm or lever B, which carries and lays theembroidering cord or material, pivoted to swing or rock from anindependent center, d, outside of and at an angle to the axis ofrotation of the needle-bar, and made capable of rotation in common withthe needle-bar carrier and needle, essentially as specified.

2. Ina universal feed-motion embroideringmachine, the combination, withsaid machine, of the rotatable and vibrating lever B, operating to laythe embroidering cord or material on opposite sides of the line ofstitch alternately, the rotatable ring or lever-carrier 6, provided witha leg or arm, d, the needlebar carrier G,the arm 0, attached to saidcarrier and engaging withthe arm d", the longitudinally-reciprocatingand rotatable screw D, the worm-wheel G, and the arm 23, carried by saidwheel and arranged to engage with the lever B, essentially as and forthe purposes herein set forth.

3. In elnbroidering-machines having a universal feed-motion, and inwhich the embroidering cord or material is alternately laid uponopposite sides of the line of stitch, the vibrating and rotatable arm orlever B, which lays the embroidering cord or material, constructed insections and made adjustable in direction of its length, in combinationwith the rotatable needle-bar carrier and universal feedmotion devices,for operation together, substantially as described, and whereby said armor lever is made adjustable up or down relatively to the sewing or tablesurface of the machine, as herein set forth.

4:. In embroidering-machines having a universal feedmotion, asdescribed, the combination, with the vibrating and rotatable lever B,which lays the embroidering cord or material, of the rotatable ring 6,to which said lever is pivoted, the worm-wheel G, the arm "11 on saidwheel, engaging with the lever B,

the combined screw and rack D, the slotted guiding-tube E, capable ofrotation together with the screw and rack, and providing for anindependent sliding motion of the latter, the shaft G,deriving itsmotion by gears from the main shaft of the machine, and. mechanismconnecting the shaft G and combined screw and rack D,for reciprocatingthe latter, essentially as specified.

HENRY E. SOHMITZ. EDWARD ALDOM. WVitnesses:

A. GREGORY, O. SEDGWICK.

IOC

